Shoe and the manufacture thereof



June 23, 1936.

J. CAVANAGH SHOE AND THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF Filed March 26, 1932 5 Sheets-$heet J.

e 23, 1936. CAVANAGH SHOE AND THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF Filed March 26, 1932 3 Sheets-$heet 2 J. CAVANAGH 2,044,875

SHOE AND THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF Filed March 26, 1932 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 'IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII 1 Patented June 23, 1936 SliliiOlE AND THE MANUFAGTURE THEREQF James Cavanagh, Cohasset, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. .11., a corporation of New Jersey Appiication .March 263, 1932, Serial No. 601,3'32

53 Claims. ELIE-M2) This invention relates to improvements in have a basket or other open weave, though this is shoes and the manufacture thereof and is illusof less consequence if it does not extend around trated herein with reference to the manufacture the extreme toe end of the shoe. Preferably, it of compo shoes. should be of cellulose material, such as cotton 5 it is usual in manufacturing compo shoes to or linen, at least if the soles are to be attached 5 roughen or scour the overlasted marginal portion with pyroxylin (i. e. cellulose nitrate) cement. of the shoe upper before the sole attaching The quilting of the marginal portion of the upcement is applied thereto in order to remove the per, as herein disclosed, or the weave of the surface layer of the leather which usually is of fabric of the tape if of a porous or open mesh,

such a character and is so finished as to interfere serves to trap the cement, holding it in place and 10 with the obtaining of a reliable cement bond beminimizing squeeze-out and possible damage to tween the sole and the overlasted portion of the the upper resulting therefrom. shoe upper. This roughening of theupper leather, If it is found that the toe trimming operation which is usually performed with a rotating wire removes too much of the tape or stitching at the i5 brush or an abrasive wheel, is a troublesome toe, or if the tape or stitching at the extreme l5 operation and it often happens that the shoe uptee is found not to extend close enough to the per is. seriously weakened during its performance. edge of the shoe bottom, a slight roughening If the leather is thin or delicate it is, not inoperation should be performed, though such is not frequently, torn to an extent that seriously weakordinarily necessary if proper care is taken in the ens the shoe, while in the case of other leathers, location of the stitching or tape. In this connotably certain reptile skins, it is practically imnection it may be well to note that the stitching possible to obtain a satisfactory roughening owing or tape should extend over the lasting allowance to the horny nature of the scales or scutes with substantially to the edge of the upper at the sides which the skins are covered. Moreover, there is thereof, say to within 1% of an inch from the edge,

considerable difficulty in determining the portion but should be stitched back V3 of an inch or so which should be roughened at the shank of the further from the edge at the toe since shoe upper shoe as the location of theedge of the insole patterns are ordinarily drafted to allow an extra often cannot be easily determined through the of an inch of lasting allowance at the toe. material of the shoe upper. Y It is also within the scope of my invention to so Accordingly, and in order to overcome the above insert the stitching or to stitch the tape to the difiioulties, it is an object of the present invention marginal portion of the shoe upper after the up-- to eliminate this roughening operation, or at least per has been assembled with an insole upon a to reduce it to a minimum. As illustrated herein, last and pulled over. In this instance the stitchthis is done by providing the marginal portion ing or tape will extend preferably from the heel of the upper (hereinafter frequently spoken of as breast line onlyto about the tip line, the over- 35 the lasting allowance) with material firmly selasted marginal portion of the upper at the toe cured to the upper of such a nature that the sole being roughened in the usual way. Since, after attaching cement will be securely bonded thereto. the upper has been pulled over, the lasting allow- This material may consist, for example, of a strip ance is in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom of tape or other fabric, or the lasting allowance at the sides and shank, the stitching or tape may 40 of the upper may be quilted, for example with readily be located in predetermined relation to several rows of stitching extending substantially the edge of the shoe bottom or insole, with the parallel to the edge of the upper. I have found. result that, after lasting, the outer row of stitches that such a'strip of fabric or the thread of such or the outer edge of the tape will be substantially stitching, together with the needle holes formed parallel to the outer edge of the insole and in as it is inserted, provides a secure anchorage for proper relation thereto. Doubtless other variathe sole attaching cement. If desired, the two tions within the scope of my invention will occur constructions may be combined in a single shoe, to those skilled in the shoe manufacturing art.

a strip of tape being stitched fiat against the The use of a strip of fabric or tape secured to marginal portion of the shoe upper over substanthe over-lasted marginal portion of the shoe 50 tially the entire width of the tape and extending upper and serving as an anchorage for the sole from the heel breast line to the tip line, the rows attaching cement insures uniform conditions for of stitching by which the tape is secured extendthe cement sole attaching and eliminates the uning about and quilting the toe portion of the upcertainty resulting from the variety of conditions 65 per. Bias tape may be used or the fabric may encountered in cement attaching soles directly to uppers of different kinds of leather and fabric. It entirely prevents the disconcerting upsetting of the shoe-factory routine which occasionally takes place when cement attaching soles to the roughened marginal portion of the upper, which may be caused, for example, by the presence of upper leather treated with a material which prevents the obtaining of a good cement bond or which occurs when an attempt is made to use an upper leather which is too thin 'or. is otherwise unsuitable for the performance of the upper roughening operation. Furthermore, shoes constructed in accordance with my invention are readily repairable in that, due to the reinforced or at least unweakened condition of the overlasted marginal portion of the uppers, they can be resoled without danger of damaging the uppers during the removal of the worn soles. Even through the peripheral tape or stitching should be injured by the removal of the worn sole, the upper leather itself will be in such sound condition as to permit the the lasting operation and illustrating the mannerin which the strips of tape may be trimmed after the lasting operation;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a shoe manufactured in accordance with my invention showing the sole slit lengthwise and turned back better to show the manner in which the shoe is manufactured;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a shoe upper with a strip of tape stitched flat against its outer surface and extending peripherally thereof around the toe as well as at the sides of the upper;

Fig. 5.is a similar view showing the marginal portion of the upper quilted with several parallel rows of stitching;

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary view showing a strip of tapeapplied to the marginal portion of the upper, the tape and upper being quilted with stitching which extends in general parallel to the edge of the upper but the individual or groups of stitches of which are inclined or zigzagged relatively to each other;

Figs. 7, 8 and 9 are plan views of shoes showing different ways in which the stitching or tape may be applied;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view of a shoe after the pulling over operation and illustrating the stitching of a strip of tape to the marginal portionof the upper after the pulling over operation; and

Fig. -11 is a transverse sectional view through the forepart of a shoe the marginal portions of the uppers of which have been taped and the sole cement attached in accordance with my invention.

In the manufacture of shoes in accordance with my invention, the upper is first prepared in the usual way, taking care, however, that the patterns are drafted accurately so that no great amount of material will have to be trimmed from the lasting allowance after the lasting operation. Then, referring particularly to Figs. 1, 2, and 3, a strip of a suitable fabric, such as the tape I4, is

stitched flat against the outer surface of the marginal portion of the upper it by a plurality of rows of stitching l8 extending substantially parallel to the bottom edge of the upper. As illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2, the tape I i extends from about the heel breast line to about the tip line of the shoe and the stitching it extends also around the toe of the shoe, as indicated at 251. Thestitching 58 would naturally extend through the upper leather and the doubler, if a doubler is used, but need not extend through the lining of the shoe.

The upper 35 and an insole 22 are then assembled upon a last 2% and the shoe is pulled over and lasted in any usual or suitable manner. As illustrated in Fig. 3, the upper is secured in lasted relation at the sides of the shoe by means of staples indicated at 26 which, as shown in Fig.

.11, are anchored in the substance of the insole without passing completely therethrough. The 2 shoe may conveniently be side lasted in this fashion with the aid, for example, of the staple side lasting machine shown in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,815,297, granted July 21, 1931, on an application filed in the name of George Goddu. The toe end of the shoe may be cement lasted, for example in a bed lasting machine with the aid of the toe plate or binderdisclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,894,678, granted January 17, 1933, on an application filed in the name of Joseph Fausse. The heel end, as illustrated, is secured in lasted relation by driven fastenings 28 (Fig. 2). It should be understood, however, that the lasting may be done in other ways and by hand or with the aid 3 of other machines if desired.

As illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2, the strips of fabric or tape iii are substantially wider than the lasting allowance of the, shoe upper. This obviates any possibility of the tape it failing to reach sufficiently closely to the edge of the shoe upper, for example if the upper leather is unduly stretchy or if the pattern has been drafted with too liberal a lasting allowance. Accordingly, the surplus portion of the strip it is trimmed off after the lasting, as indicated at 30 in Fig. 2, leaving one edge of the strip it close to the inner edge of the marginal portion of the upper and the other edge of the tape substantially in alinement with the edge of the insole. It should be understood, of course, that any surplus material is trimmed from the margin of the upper after the lasting, both at the sides and at the toe, by the usual upper trimming operations. Since it is usual to provide a little more lasting allowance at the toe than at the sides of the upper the stitching 20 at the toe of the upper may advantageously be spaced a little further from the edge, say /8 of an inch further, than at the sides of the shoe and it is so illustrated 60 in Fig. 1.

After the trimming operations referred to above have been performed, the bottom filler and shank piece are applied in the usual way and ii there is any doubt as to the adequacy or proper positionof the stitching at the toe portion of the shoe, for example because of an unexpected stretch in the upper by reason of which the stitching may not be close enough to the edge of the shoe bottom, the portion of the upper at the toe may be roughened lightly with a rotating wire brush. Then a coating of pyroxylin or other suitable cement, indicated at 32 in Fig. 3, is applied to the marginal portion of the shoe ,bottom, particularly to the tape 26 and to the stitched or quilted portion of the upper at the toe of the shoe. A sole 34 is prepared for cement attachment, its marginal portion being reduced in thickness if desired, particularly at the shank, and then roughened after which a band of pyroxylin cement 36 is applied to its marginal portion. After the cement on the shoe bottom and sole has dried it is out or softened on one or both of those parts, preferably on the sole, with a suitable softener, for example with a softener disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,959,320 granted May 15, 1934 on an application filed in the name of Walter H. Wedger. The shoe and sole are then brought together in proper location and placed under pressure while the cement is setting, for example in a cement sole attaching machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,897,105, granted February 14, 1933, on an application filed in the name of Milton H. Ballard.

Attention is called at this time to Fig. 3, which is a somewhat diagrammatic illustration of a shoe manufactured as herein described and illus trating what would be found if the sole of the shoe were slit lengthwise from the toe to the ball line and that pulled back, imagining that the cement bond be separated into two parts (as it would not be in actual practice), part of the cement remaining on the sole and part of it on the shoe bottom as it was originally applied. It is thought that this view will be particularly helpiul in disclosing at a glance a shoe construction comprising one of the preferred embodiments of my invention. 1

Figs. 4 to 10, inclusive, illustrate a number of different ways in which my invention may be practiced. Thus in the construction of Fig. 4 the tape th, which is secured to the marginal portion of the shoe upper it, not only at the sides but also at the toe portion, is somewhat narrower than the lasting allowance of the shoe upper so that it will be completely'concealed by the sole of the finished shoe without the necessity of trimming anything from the edge M of the tape, which is more remote from the edge of the shoe upper. Moreover, in Fig. 4 the edge of the tape itadjacent to the edge of the shoe upper is spaced inwardly a short distance from the edge of the upper on the theory that a small amount of stock will be trimmed from the edge of the upper after the lasting operation. In this figure, moreover, the tape ill, like the stitching 20 in Figs. 1 and 2, is spaced inwardly from the edge of the uppe at the toe, as shown at 46, a little further than it is at the sides to take care or extra lasting allowance at the toe. Aside from the differences which have just been noted, the upper is treated in the manner already described in connection with Figs. 1, 2, and 3 and the shoe which is produced with this upper will be substantially identical with the shoe shown in Fig. 3 except that the strip Ml extends about the toe as well as along the sides of the shoe.

The shoe upper 48 illustrated in Fig. is identical with that shown in Fig. 4 except that the tape id is omitted. Thus the lasting allowance of the'shoe upper is quilted over substantially the whole of its width at the sides, as indicated at 50, and over that portion of the lasting allowance which will not be trimmed off at the toe. as illustrated at 52. The shoe is to be assembled and lasted in the manner already described and after the upper trimming operation it will be found that the overlasted marginal portion of the upper is quilted over substantially its entire width forwardly of the heel breast line, as shown in Fig. 9. The threads of the stitches which constitute the quilting together with the holes formed in the upper by the needles with which the stitch- 5 ing is done form a secure anchorage for the sole attaching cement and, like the tape of Fig. 4, obviate the necessity of an upper roughening operation.

Fig. 6 illustrates a variation of the upper shown in Fig. 4, the stitching 54 with which the tape 56 and the upper 58 are quilted running as a whole parallel to the margin of the shoe upper but being arranged, nevertheless, in a zigzag with individual stitches inclined relatively to the edge -of the upper and transversely of each other.

Figs. 7 and 9 illustrate the bottoms of shoes made with the uppers of Figs. e and 5 respectively, the shoes having been side lasted with staples 26, as hereinbefore described, which staples, in the construction of Fig. '7. extend through the tape tilt and serve additionally to secure the tape to the shoe upper.

In Fig. 8 the upper M is provided with tapes is similar to those shown in Fig. l and extending from about the heel breast line to the tip line of the upper. The stitching 62, by which the. tapes are secured to the shoe upper, does not, however, extend about the toe portion of the overiasted margin oi the upper ea whiehyaecordingly, has been roughened, as indicated at tit-l, for example with a rotating wire brush. A cost oi sole attaching cement is indicated in Figs. 7, 8, and 9 at 32, this cement extending substantially over the width of the overlzsted marginal portion of the upper.

mg. 10 illustrates a variation in the method already described in which the insole 2222 and the shoe upper it are assembled upon a last it and the toe portion of the upper pulled over and secured in pulled-over relation by tacks i l in accordance with usual shoemaking practice. After this, but before the lasting operation, the tape it is secured to the marginal portion of the upper "80 by stitching iii, the stitching, of course, extending from one end of the tape to the other. Thus the tape can readily be positioned so that its outer edge (in the lasted shoe) will be substantially in line with the edge of the insole. When this procedure is followed it is practicable to extend the stitching it through all the layers of the upper materials, including the lining, and this construction is particularly desirable if the upper is to be secured in lasted relation along the sides of the shoe with cement instead of with the staples which are used in the shoe of Fig. 3 since it serves to secure the various layers of the upper permanently together. If, as disclosed in Fig. 10, the tape 16 and the stitching i8 do not extend forwardly e of the tip line of the shoe the overlasted marginal portion of the upper at the toe should be roughened, as illustrated in Fig. 8, before the ocment 32 is applied.

The strips of fabric or tape used to reinforce the upper material and to serve as an anchorage for the pyroxylin cement, as herein disclosed, are preferably woven from a cellulose fibre such as cotton or linen, since pyroxylin cement such as is most frequently used in the manufacture of compo shoes is compatible with and adheres particularly well to such material. It should not be understood, however, that my invention is limited'to the use of tape of this kind. Preferably, particularly if the tape is to extend about the toe of the shoe as illustrated in Figs. 4 and '7, it'should be bias cut or bias woven since tape of that sort can easily be caused to lie flat even when bent on the small radius of the toe of the shoe, and such bias fabric is indicated in the drawings by the shading Bil. Instead of bias tape a porous knit or open weave fabric may also be used with good results. If, however, the tape does not extend about the toe of the shoe, as illustrated in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 8, and 10, there will be no difficulty in causing the tape or strip 68 to lie fiat against the marginal portion of the upper and the strip may be formed of, for example, Canton flannel or cotton drill or duck. If any sizing is used in the tape it should be a sizing which will not interfere with the holding power of the sole attaching cement. Thus the tape may be treated with a pyroxylin sizing if the soles are to be attached with pyroxylin cement.

Having thus described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in" methods of making shoes which comprises inserting several rows of stitching in the lasting allowance of a shoe upper substantially parallel to the edge thereof, thereby forming an anchorage to which pyroxylin cement will adhere strongly, lasting the upper, and, without roughening the overlasted portion of the upper, attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom with .pyroxylin cement.

2. That, improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises inserting a plurality of rows of closely spaced substantially parallel stitching in the marginal portion of a completed shoe upper adjacent and substantially parallel to the bottom edge thereof, assembling the upper and an insole upon a last and lasting the shoe whereby the stitched portion of the upper overlies the marginal portion of the insole, and, without roughening the overlasted portion of the upper, securing an outsole with pyroxylin cement directly to the stitched portion of the upper.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises quilting the marginal portion of a completed shoe upper forwardly of the heel breast line, and thereafter lasting the upper and, without roughening the quilted portion of the upper, attaching an outsole directly to the quilted portion of the upper with cellulose-derivative cement.

4. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises quilting the marginal por tion of a completed shoe upper forwardly of the heel breast line, assembling an insole and the shoe upper upon a last and lasting the shoe whereby the quilted portion of the upper overlies the marginal portion of the insole, and, without roughening the quilted portion of the upper, attaching an outsole directly to the quilted marginal portion of the shoe upper with a cellulose ester cement.

5. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises stitching a-tape to the outer surface of a shoe upper fiat against the surface of the upper material and substantially peripherally thereof in such position that the outer edge of the tape will lie substantially opposite the edge of the insole when the shoe is lasted, working the upper into lasted relation to an insole and last and securing the upper in lasted relation to the insole, and cement-attaching an outsole to the tape.

6. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises stitching tape flat against the marginal portion of a shoe upper and extending peripherally thereof forwardly of the heel breast line of the upper in such position that the outer edge of the tape will lie substantially opposite the edge of the insole whenthe shoe is lasted, securing the upper in lasted relation to an insole and last whereby the taped and stitched portion of the upper issecured substantially fiat against the insole, and attaching an outsole to the tape with pyroxylin cement.

'1. ,That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises stitching tape to a shoe upper substantially peripherally thereof and extending at least from approximately the heel-breast line to the tip line at both sides of the upper, the tape lying flat against the shoe upper over substantially the entire width of the tape in suchposition that the outer edge of the tape will lie substantially opposite the edge of the insole when the shoe is lasted, working the upper into lasted relation to the insole and last and securing the upper in lasted relation to the insole, and cement-attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

8. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises stitching a strip of tape to the outer surface of a shoe upper, said tape extending peripherally of the shoe upper from substantially the heel breast line forwardly about the toe and back to the heel breast line at the other side, the outer edge of said tape being located relatively close to the edge of the shoe upper along the sides of the shoe but being spaced inwardly somewhat from the margin at the toe, assembling an insole and the shoe upper upon a last, lasting the shoe and thereby so positioning the upper relatively to the insole that the edge 'of the tape further from the edge of the upper is substantially parallel to the edge of the insole, and cement-attaching anoutsole to the shoe.

9. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises stitching a strip of tape of a material compatible with pyroxylin cement fiat against the outside of a shoe upper peripherally thereof and extending from approximately the heel-breast line at one side of the shoe forwardly about the toe and backwardly to the heel-breast line at the other side, as-

sembling the upper and an insole upon a last and lasting the shoe, applying a coat of pyroxypyroxylin cement to the marginal portion of a suitably prepared sole, letting'the cement on both said parts dry, activating the cement on at least one of said parts with a suitable softener, applying the sole to the shoe bottom, and maintaining the shoe and sole under pressure while the cement sets.

10. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing strips of tape to the outside of the shoe upper material, each strip of tape extending substantially parallel to the margin of the shoe upper from approximately the heel-breast line to the tip line of the shoe, assembling an insole and the 'shoe upper upon a last and lasting the shoe,

line, assembling the upper and an insole upon the last and lasting the shoe, roughening the overlasted marginal portion of the upper, if necessary, at the toe of the shoe but not at the sides, and cement-attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

12. That improvement in methods of manu facturing shoes which comprises stitching tape flat against the marginal portion of a shoe upper and extending peripherally thereof from about the heel breast line to about the tip line of the upper and continuing the stitching peripherally of the upper about the toe thereof, securing the upper in lasted relation to an insole. and last whereby the taped and the stitched portion of the upper are secured fiat against the insole, and cement-attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

13. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing a pair of strips of tape flat against the opposite marginal portions of the shoe upper from approximately the heel-breast line to the tip line of the shoe by stitching which extends not only from the heelbreast line to the tip line but forwardly about the toe of the shoe, assembling the upper and the insole upon a last, lasting the shoe, and cementattaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

14. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing a pair of strips of tape to the opposite marginal portions of the shoe upper from approximately the heel-breast line to the tip line of the shoe by a plurality of approximately parallel rows of stitching extending from the heel-breast line forwardly about the toe of the shoe and rearwardly to the heel-breast line at the other side,

assembling the upper and the insole upon a last, lasting the shoe, and cement-attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

15. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises stitching strips of tape to the outside of the shoe upper material adjacent to the edge thereof, each strip of tape extending substantially parallel to the margin of the shoe upper from approximately the heelbreast line to the tip line of the shoe, and extending the stitching about the toe portion of the upper, assembling an insole and the shoe upper upon a last and lasting the shoe, roughening the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper where the tape is absent at the toe of the shoe, and cement-attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

16. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises stitching a strip of tape of a material compatible with cellulosederivative cement fiat against the outer surface of a shoe upper, said tape extending peripherally of the shoe upper at least from substantially the heel breast line to the tip line on both sides of the shoe and the stitching extending about the toe, assembling an insole and the shoe upper upon a last, lasting the shoe, and attaching an outsole thereto with cellulose-derivative cement.

17. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises applying a strip of fabric flat against the marginal portion of a shoe upper forwardly of the heel breast line and quilting the strip of fabric and. the underlying portion of the upper over the major portion of the width of the strip, assembling an insole and the shoe upper upon a last and lasting the shoe whereby the quilted strip and upper overlie the marginal portion of the insole, and cementattaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

18. That improvement in methods of manu-- facturing shoes which comprises stitching to the marginal portion of the upper a strip of fabric 5 somewhat wider than the width of the overlasted marginal portion of the upper in the finished shoe, assembling an insole and the upper upon a last and lasting the shoe, removing the outer marginal portion of the strip of material and 10 thereby reducing the width of the strip so that its outer edge will not show in the finished shoe, and thereafter cement-attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

19. That improvement in methods of mauul5 facturing shoes which comprises stitching a strip of fabric flat against the marginal portion of a shoe upper by a plurality of substantially parallel rows of stitching, said strip being somewhat wider than the width of the oyerlasted marginal portion of the upper in the finished shoe, assembling an insole and the upper upon a last and lasting the shoe, trimming on the edge portion of said strip which is farther from the edge of the strip, so that the trimmed edge is approximately in line with the edge of the insole and will not show in the finished shoe, and thereafter cementattaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

shoe upper and thereby reducing the width of the 20. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which consists in assembling an insole and a multi-ply upper upon a last, pulling over the upper, uniting the plies oi the upper by a plurality of lines of stitching extending through the marginal portion of the plies of the upper,

the line of stitching furthest from the edge of the upper being located in such relation to the edge of the insole that, after the lasting, it will be sub-- stantially in alinement with the edge of the insole, working the upper over the bottom of the 40 rial incompatible with cellulose-derivative cements, securing the fabric to the lasting allowance, working the lasting allowance and fabric over the bottom of an insole and securing it in lasted relation thereto, and attaching the margin of the outsole to said fabric with cellulose derivative cement.

22. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which consists in stitching fabric free from material incompatible with cellulosederivative cements flat against the outer surface of the'lasting allowance of a shoe upper, working the lasting allowance over the bottom of an insole and securing it in lasted relation thereto, and

attaching the margin of an outsole to said fabric with cellulose-derivative cement.

23. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which consists in substantially covering the outer surface of the lasting allowance of a shoe upperwith woven fabric free from material incompatible with cellulose-derivative cements, stitching the' fabric and upper together substantially throughout the area of the contact of the fabric with the outer surface of the upper material, working the lasting allowance and fabric over the bottom of an insole and securing it in lasted relation thereto, and attaching the margin of the outsole to said fabric with cellulose-derivative cement.

24. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which consists in substantially covering the lasting allowance of a shoe upper with a strip of fabric compatible with cellulosederivative cement, uniting the lasting allowance and the fabric, working the lasting allowance and fabric over the bottom of an insole and securing it in lasted relation thereto, and attaching the margin of an outsole to the strip of fabric with cellulose-derivative cement.

25. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises inserting stitching in the marginal portion of the upper of a pulled-over shoe, said stitching being distributed over substantially the entire width of the lasting allowance, lasting the shoe, and cement-attaching an outsole thereto without roughening the-overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper.

26. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing a shoe upper at its toe portion in pulled-over relation to an insole and last, inserting a plurality of rows of stitching in the marginal portion of the upper, lasting the upper whereby said stitched portion overlies the marginal portion of the insole, and cement-attaching an outsole to the overlasted stitched portion of the upper without roughening the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper.

27. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises assembling an insole and a shoe upper on a last, pulling the upper over and securing it in pulled-over relation at the toe portion of the shoe, then inserting a plurality of rows of stitching extending substantially parallel to the edge of the insole and distributed over substantially the whole of the width of the lasting allowance of the upper, and thereafter lasting the shoe and cement-attaching an outsole thereto without roughening the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper.

28. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises assembling an insole and an upper on a last, pulling the upper over and securing it in pulled-over relation at the toe portion of the shoe, then securing a strip of tape to the lasting allowance of the upper, peripherally of the upper and with one edge of the tape substantially in line with the edge of the insole and the other edge nearer the edge of the upper, and thereafter lasting the shoe and cement-attaching an outsole thereto.

29. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises assembling an insole and a shoe upper on a last, pulling the upper over and securing it in pulled-over relation to the toe portion of the shoe, then inserting stitching through the marginal portion of the upper, said stitching being distributed over substantially the entire width of the lasting allowance of the upper, and thereafter lasting the shoe and, without roughening the overlasted marginal portion of the upper, cement-attaching an outsole to the shoe.

30. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises assembling an insole and shoe upper on a last, pulling the upper over and securing it in pulled-over relation at the toe portion of the shoe, then securing a strip of tape to the marginal portion of the upper at each side, each strip of tape extending approximately from the heel-breast line to the tip line of the shoe, lasting the shoe, and cement-attaching an outsole thereto.

31. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises assembling an insole and shoe upper on a last, pulling the upper over and securing it in pulled-over relation with tacks inserted at the toe portion of the shoe, thereafter securing strips of cotton tape to the marginal portion of the upper, one strip at each side, each of said strips of tape extending approximately from the heel-breast line to the tip line of the shoe, lasting the shoe, and attaching an outsole thereto with pyroxylin cement.

32. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises stitching a strip of pyroxylin-sized fabric to the outer surface of a shoe upper substantially peripherally thereof and extending at least from the heel breast line to the tip line, working the upper into lasted relation to an insole and last and securing the upper in lasted relation to the insole, and attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom with pyroxylin cement.

33. That improvement in methods of manufac-.

turing shoes which comprises securing a strip of fabric sized with a cellulose derivative to the lasting allowance of a shoe upper, and thereby holding said 'strip substantially fiat against the marginal portion of the outer surface of the upper, lasting the upper, and attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom with cellulose derivative cement.

34. A shoe upper having its marginal portion quilted over substantially the whole width of the I lasting allowance of the upper, the remainder of the upper being non-quilted.

35. A shoe upper having a plurality of substantially parallel rows of stitching in its marginal portion and occupying substantially the whole width of the lasting allowance of'the upper the major portion, at least, of the remainder of the upper being free from such parallel rows of stitching.

36. A leather shoe upper the marginal portion of which is provided with stitching extending over substantially the whole width of the lasting allowance of the upper forwardly of the heel breast line, the remainder of the upper being free from more than the normal stitching.

3'7. A shoe upper having woven fabric secured flat against the outer surface of the marginal portion of the upper over a width approximating that of the lasting allowance of the upper, said fabric being free from rubber and of such a nature' that cellulose ester cement will adhere securely thereto.

38. A shoe upper having woven fabric stitched fiat against the outer surface of the marginal portion of the upper and extending at least from about the heel breast line to about the tip line at both sides of the upper, said fabric being free from rubber and of such a nature that cellulose ester cement will adhere securely thereto.

39. A shoe upper having a strip of fabric of a width approximating that of the lasting allowance of the upper stitched flat against and peripherally of the marginal portion of the. upper, said strip being in contact with the upper over substantially the entire width of the strip and being of a material to which cellulose ester cements will securely adhere.

40. A shoe upper having strips -of fabric stitched fiat against the marginal portion thereof and extending from about the heel breast line only to about the tip line at both sides of the upper, the stitching extending also forwardly about the toe portion of the upper.

portion of itsupper.

42. A shoe having the overlasted portion of its upper quilted with stitching extending as a whole substantially parallel to the edge of the upper but with the individual stitches inclined relatively to the edge of the upper, said quilting extending over the major portion of the width of said overlasted portion, and an outsole cementattached to said quilted portion.

43. A shoe having the overlasted marginal portion of its upper quilted with stitches extending transversely to each other, said quilting extending over the major portion of the width of said overlasted portion, and having anoutsole cement-attached to the quilted portion of the upper.

44. A shoe having a strip of re-enforcing material secured to the overlasted marginal portion of its upper by several rows of stitching distributed over substantially the entire width of said overlasted portion, and an outsole cementattached to and concealing said strip.

45. A shoe having a strip of re-eniorcing material secured to the overlasted marginal portion of its upper by stitching extending over the major portion of the width of the strip, and an outsole cement-attached to and concealing said strip.

46. A shoe having a strip of reinforcing fabric of material compatible with cellulose-derivative cements secured to and reinforcing the overlasted marginal portion of its upper and extending peripherally about the edge of the upper, flat against the overlasted marginal portion of the upper, at least from about the heel breast line to the, tip line, and a sole attached to the shoe bottom with cellulose-derivative cement.

47. A shoe having strips of fabric stitched flat against the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper at opposite sides of the upper and extending from about the heel breast line only to about the tip line of the shoe, and a sole cement-attached to said strips of fabric and to the overlasted margin of the shoe upper forwardly of the ends of said strips.

48. A shoe having a strip of fabric secured flat against the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper and extending from about the heel breast line only to about the tip line of the shoe, said strip being secured to the upper'by stitching extending as a whole approximately parallel to the margin of the shoe upper, said stitching extending also about the toe of the shoe, and an outsole cement-attached to said strip of fabric and said stitching.

49. A shoe having a strip of cotton fabric secured flat against the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper and extending from about the heel breast line only to about the tip line of the shoe, said strip being secured to the upper by a plurality of rows of stitching extending approximately parallel to the margin of the shoe upper, said stitching extending also about the toe of the shoe, and an outsole attached to said strip of fabric and said stitching by Dyroxylin cement.

50. A shoe having strips of tape stitched to the overlasted marginal portion of its upper and extending substantially from the heel breast line to the tip line of the shoe at opposite sides thereof and having the overlasted portion of the upper forwardly of said strips of tape roughened, and an outsole cement-attached to the shoe bottom.

51. A shoe having strips of tape stitched to the overlasted marginal portion of its upper and ex tending substantially from the heel breast line only to about the tip line of the shoe at opposite sides thereof and having the overlasted portion of the upper forwardly of said strips of tape quilted, and an outsole cement-attached to the taped and quilted marginal portions of the shoe upper.

52. A shoe having a strip of cotton'fabric free from material incompatible with cellulose' ester cements secured flat against the overlasted marginal portion of its upper, and extending from about the heel breast line to about the tipline of the shoe at both sides thereof, and a sole permanently cement-attached with a cellulose ester cement to said fabric.

53. A shoe .having a strip of textile fabric stitched flat against substantially the entire width of the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper and extending along the shank and forepart'of the shoe, and a sole attached to said strip of fabric with pyroxylin cement.

JAIMES CAVANAGH. 

